Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2004 (around £14.95, Philglas & Swiggot, .uk, or Liberty Wines, 020-7720 5350) is savoury and elegant. He serves us these nice glasses of chianti with a bowl of fava soup. Polvere."Īnd the wines? They are like miracles.
these are the nuances you find in our wines." Then he adds, in a very final way, "And dust. Tobacco, smoke, mushrooms, truffles, cassis, blueberries. "It is a molto italiano grape, like teroldego, anche aglianico. "If you want, I can prepare a wine for 100 points - I can do that, no problem." Instead, he says, he chooses to document, and evolve, wines from pure sangiovese. "I can accept very few exceptions." He sneers. He does not like the practice, now commonplace, of adding cabernet to flesh out and make sturdier the chianti classico blend for modern, Parker-esque palates. Nothing makes him laugh longer, or more bitterly, than the idea of making Tuscan vin santo from cabernet sauvignon or merlot. Mazzocolin does not like international grape varieties. It is a different world there."įinally, we come to vinous matters. "Drive for five minutes, and you are in Chianti Colli Senesi. Then we are instructed to look to a pale track winding in the middle distance, marking the last vineyards of Chianti Classico. First, we are to identify a caper tree growing out of a crevice in the wall, and told how to pick out the looming bulk of Monte Amiata - "This is the same view you would have seen 1,000 years ago." It is a long time before he begins to talk about wine. Pool." He gives a look in which a dozen dark novels might be contained. "I might do it one day," says Mazzocolin, reading our minds and finding us wanting. A place like this, rented out to gaggles of white-faced Brits, would pay for itself a hundred times over.
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